The “Stacked” Hole Saw Trick (Don’t Buy A Jig): How I Enlarge an Existing Hole Cleanly

The stacked hole saw trick is my go-to way to enlarge an existing hole without buying a jig.

Stacked hole saw trick, Spyder Rapid Core Eject, and Spyder hole saw kits are the fastest way I’ve found to enlarge an existing hole without buying a jig. If you’ve ever watched a hole saw skate, chatter, and try to break your wrist, you know the pain. In this guide, I’ll show the exact stacked setup, the cleanest way to start the cut, and the little details that make it work every time.

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Table of Contents

What Is the Stacked Hole Saw Trick?

The stacked hole saw trick is the cleanest way I know to enlarge an existing hole with a hole saw without buying a jig. The setup is simple:

  • Front hole saw = guide saw (drops into the hole you already have)
  • Back hole saw = cutter saw (cuts the new bigger size)

The reason it works is simple too: when the guide saw sits inside the existing hole, it stops the cutter from skating around. Like I say in the demo: the front saw steers and the back saw cuts.

Spyder hole saw stacked setup handheld close-up

Stacked setup: guide saw in front, cutter saw behind.

Why Hole Saws Walk on Existing Holes

If you’ve ever tried to enlarge a hole the “normal” way, you already know what happens: the cup skates, chatters, and grabs. That’s because the pilot bit doesn’t have enough solid material to bite into when the center is already missing.

So instead of the pilot stabilizing the cut, the hole saw tries to “find” its own path—and that’s when you get:

  • Walking (ruins layout and makes an ugly hole)
  • Chatter (vibration, noise, and broken teeth)
  • Grab (the moment it tries to twist your wrist)

This is exactly why people buy jigs. But for remodel work, service calls, and surprise changes, I’d rather use a trick that’s fast and doesn’t require another tool to carry around.

If you want more tool fundamentals (especially if you’re building out your drilling setup), bookmark this VCG guide: Choosing the Right Drill Bits (VCG).

Hole saw cutting through stud with sawdust flying

When the setup is right, the cut is controlled and clean.

Tools I Use for the Stacked Hole Saw Trick

Here’s what I use for the stacked hole saw trick on real jobs:

  • Two hole saw sizes: one that matches the existing hole (guide) and one that matches the new hole size (cutter)
  • A solid arbor system that stays tight and runs true
  • A pilot bit that’s straight and seated properly
  • A drill with good control (and a side handle if you have one)
  • Clamps (when the workpiece can move, your risk goes way up)

If you’re shopping the Spyder setup I’m using:

Spyder hole saw kit contents close-up showing arbor and pilot bits

Good results start with a tight setup: pilot, adapters, and clean engagement.

Why Spyder Rapid Core Eject Makes This Easier

I’m not going to pretend you can’t do a stacked hole saw trick with other setups. You can. But what I like about the Spyder Rapid Core Eject system is how it improves the parts that usually slow you down:

  • Core removal becomes quick instead of a screwdriver-and-curse situation.
  • Size changes are faster, which matters when you’re drilling multiple holes across a project.

Spyder Rapid Core Eject button close-up

This button is the feature that made me adopt the system.

If you want to check out the system directly, use our affiliate link here: Spyder Rapid Core Eject / kit.

Step-by-Step: The Stacked Hole Saw Trick (Don’t Buy a Jig)

This is the exact process I use to enlarge an existing hole cleanly. Read it once, then you’ll do it forever.

Step 1: Pick the guide hole saw and the cutter hole saw

I choose:

  • Guide saw: matches the hole I already have
  • Cutter saw: matches the hole I need

Step 2: Build the stacked setup

The stacked trick works because the system can run two hole saws at the same time. The guide saw goes up front. The cutter goes behind it.

Important: many kits come with one adapter per system. To do the stacked trick, you may need a second matching adapter. It’s not a problem—just something people don’t realize until they try it.

Step 3: Seat the guide saw into the existing hole

This is the part that fixes the whole problem. Once the guide saw is sitting in the hole:

  • It’s centered
  • It can’t skate
  • It can’t wander

Step 4: Run a slower speed and steady pressure

I don’t full-trigger this. I start controlled, then let the teeth do the work. Slow is smooth here, especially as the cutter starts biting a full ring.

Step 5: Cut in short bursts and clear chips

If you want clean holes and long tool life, clear chips often. Packed chips create heat, binding, and tooth damage.

Step 6: Finish the cut and deal with the plug/core

Traditional hole saws make you fight the plug. With a system designed for faster ejection, you spend more time working and less time prying.

Hole saw plug core after cutting wood stud

The plug/core is usually the slowdown—unless your system makes it quick.

Bonus Trick: Cutting at an Angle Without Jumping

This is one of those “hidden” moves most people never try. If you start a hole saw at a full angle immediately, it tends to chatter and grab.

Here’s what I do instead:

  1. Start level to establish the pilot and create a notch
  2. Then tilt to your angle once the teeth have a track

Spyder hole saw jobsite demo in framed wall

Score first, then tilt. That’s how I keep angle cuts controlled.

Fast Size Changes + Core Removal (The “Hidden” Advantage)

Here’s the truth: the stacked hole saw trick is awesome, but the real productivity boost comes when you can switch sizes and eject cores quickly.

Tip 1: Keep the interface clean

If swapping starts feeling gritty or stuck, it’s usually dust and debris in the threads. I wipe everything down and keep moving.

If you like “small upgrades that matter,” you’ll like this VCG post too: Lowe’s Hidden Gem Tool Accessories (VCG).

Tip 2: Tighten—BUT don’t wedge

I tighten the setup properly, but I don’t wedge parts together. A wedged hole saw is a time-waster, and it turns fast swaps into a fight.

Universal hole saw mounted on Spyder Rapid Core Eject arbor

Smooth engagement matters. If it feels wrong, stop and fix it.

“It Won’t Fit” Fix: Stop Forcing It

The number one frustration I see is: “It won’t thread on.”

Here’s my rule:

  • If it doesn’t thread on smoothly, STOP.
  • Don’t force it.
  • Match the system correctly (Spyder commonly uses two thread/arbor families).

If it binds, something is mismatched. Forcing it is how threads get wrecked and parts get stuck.

Which Spyder Kit to Use for the Stacked Hole Saw Trick (Bi‑Metal vs Carbide)

I keep this decision simple:

  • Cutting metal, stainless, or nail-embedded wood? I go bi-metal.
  • Cutting wood, MDF, plywood, plastics, PVC? I grab the kit that’s built for that lane (often carbide-style versatility depending on your job).

One detail most people miss: some carbide-style kits include two pilot bits that are not redundant. One is more “masonry-style,” one is more “wood/twist-style.” That matters when your remodel bounces across materials.

Hole saw teeth and pilot bits close-up

Sharp teeth + the right pilot = cleaner holes and less chatter.

If you want to shop the kits using our affiliate links:

RPM + Pressure: How I Save Teeth (And Money)

This last part saves you the most money over time. If you run hole saws too fast—especially in metal—you’ll overheat teeth and kill the saw.

Here’s the practical approach I use:

  • Bigger diameter = lower RPM
  • Steady pressure (don’t force it)
  • Clear chips often (packed chips = heat + binding)
  • For metal: use cutting oil

A real-world example from my workflow: a 2-inch bi-metal hole saw in mild steel is usually run in the hundreds of RPM, and in stainless it can be roughly half that. The exact number depends on your tool and setup, but the direction is the same: slow down and let it cut.

Where This Trick Saves You Real Time on Remodels

This is the kind of trick that makes you money when things change mid-project.

Example: you’re remodeling a bathroom. A supply line was in one spot. Then you discover you need a drain line or a new pass-through. You don’t want to reframe. You don’t want to waste time rebuilding a section of wall.

With the stacked hole saw trick, you find the right guide size for the hole that exists, then enlarge it to what you need. It’s a time saver, a money saver, and honestly it helps you deliver a cleaner result without turning a small surprise into a big change order.

Safety Notes (Avoid Wrist‑Breaker Kickback)

Quick safety checklist I follow every time:

  • Use regular drill mode only. No hammer mode. No impact.
  • Clamp your work. If it can spin or shift, you’re at risk.
  • Use a support handle if you have it. Hole saws can grab hard.
  • Eye protection and hearing protection. Always.

And if you want gear that’s built for jobsite life, check out: VCG Hoodies.

When You Actually Should Buy a Jig

I’m still going to be honest: if you do repeated door hardware installs, a jig can be worth it.

If that’s your world, you’ll want this related VCG post: Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit (VCG).

But for enlarging random holes during remodels and fixes? The stacked hole saw trick is usually faster than hunting down a jig.

FAQ: Stacked Hole Saw Trick

Can you use a hole saw to enlarge an existing hole?

Yes. The stacked hole saw trick is built for this: the guide saw sits in the existing hole and keeps the cutter saw from walking.

How do I keep a hole saw from walking on an existing hole?

Use a guide (stacked trick) and slow down. High RPM and heavy pressure make walking and chatter worse.

Do I need two hole saws for the stacked trick?

Yes. One size becomes the guide (existing hole size), and one size becomes the cutter (your new hole size).

Do I need a special arbor for the stacked hole saw trick?

You need a stable arbor system that can hold the setup tight and run true. A quick-change system can make the process faster, especially when you’re swapping sizes.

Why do some kits include two pilot bits?

Because they aren’t always redundant. Some kits include a masonry-style pilot and a twist-style pilot so you can work across multiple materials more effectively.

What’s the best speed for a hole saw?

In general: bigger hole saws run slower. Metal runs slower than wood. Clear chips often and use cutting oil on metal to keep teeth alive.

What’s your “10-second test” before drilling?

Three questions: (1) What am I cutting? Metal/nails = bi-metal. Wood/PVC = the kit made for it. (2) Does it thread on smoothly? If it binds, I stop and match the system. (3) Am I clamped, supported, and in rotary mode? Then I drill.

Final Recap: The Stacked Hole Saw Trick in One Line

Use one hole saw as a guide and one as the cutter—run slower, clear chips, and don’t force mismatched parts.

If you want to see the kits and system again, here are your affiliate links one last time:

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