Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit: Faster, Smarter Lock Installs with Rapid Core Eject

October 26, 2025

Spyder door lock installation kit is the fastest way I’ve found to ditch paper templates and install locks accurately. Rapid Core Eject speeds cut‑outs. A clamp‑on jig keeps holes square. It fits common backsets and door thicknesses. If working smarter, not harder, is your goal, this guide shows what’s in the kit, how to use it step‑by‑step, and where it beats old methods.

What Is the Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit?

The Spyder door lock installation kit is a compact, clamp‑on jig and hole saw set made for clean, repeatable lockset and deadbolt bores. Instead of taping a paper template and hoping your drill stays at 90°, the jig guides the pilot and hole saws so both halves meet perfectly. The headline feature is Spyder’s Rapid Core Eject, a push‑button system that pops out the plug after a cut so you can switch sizes and keep moving.

Spyder door lock installation kit in retail packaging on a jobsite bench — Spyder kit 600884: clamp‑on jig, arbor and pilot, 1" and 2‑1/8" bi‑metal hole saws, and a burr‑free depth stop insert.

Who is this for? Pros who value speed and accuracy—and DIYers who want pro results without rework.

What’s Inside the Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit (600884)?

Out of the clamshell you’ll find:

Clamp‑on door lock installation jig with quick‑connect knob and depth‑stop insert.
Arbor + pilot bit (Spyder Hex10), ready for rapid eject.
Two bi‑metal hole saws: 2‑1/8" for the main lockset/deadbolt and 1" for the latch/bolt hole.
Burr‑free depth stop insert that helps you avoid blowout on the backside and keeps the cut clean.

Close-up of the Spyder door lock installation kit contents on a workbench — Everything you need for the two standard bores, plus the push‑button Rapid Core Eject arbor.

The jig supports the common setups you’ll actually encounter day to day: door thicknesses of 1‑3/8" and 1‑3/4" and backsets of 2‑3/8" and 2‑3/4". It’s designed for wood doors and many steel doors up to 1‑3/4" thickness. Because the jig is clamp‑on, there’s no screwing into a new slab and no sticky adhesive to clean up later.

Rapid Core Eject: What It Is and Why It’s Faster

Core removal is where many hole‑saw jobs bog down. With Spyder’s Rapid Core Eject, you press the arbor button and push the core off the saw—no flathead screwdriver, no pliers, no cracked plug. That means you can drill your 2‑1/8" bore, eject the plug in seconds, then switch to the 1" hole saw to do the latch without losing your pace.

Spyder Rapid Core Eject arbor and pilot bit with ejected core on a wooden bench — Push‑button core removal speeds up size changes and keeps your workflow smooth.

Less fiddling equals less downtime. Coupled with the jig’s rigid guidance, it’s a system designed for speed and accuracy.

Step‑by‑Step: How to Install a Lock with the Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit

1) Prep & Layout (2–3 minutes)

Verify the handing of the door, height of the lockset (typically 36" from finished floor unless specified otherwise), and the hardware you’re installing. Mark the centerline on the door edge and face. Have eye and ear protection ready.

2) Set Door Thickness & Backset

The jig’s insert flips to handle both standard thicknesses: 1‑3/8" and 1‑3/4". Choose the backset with the molded indicators: 2‑3/8" for most interior knobs, 2‑3/4" for many exterior locks. Double‑check these settings before clamping the tool.

Spyder jig close-up showing 2-3/8 and 2-3/4 backset and door thickness settings — Flip the insert for 1‑3/8" or 1‑3/4" doors; choose 2‑3/8" or 2‑3/4" backset.

3) Clamp the Jig

Open the quick‑connect knob, position the jig so the guide centers on your lockset mark, and snug it against the door faces. The rubber feet protect finished paint while gripping the slab. Make sure the jig is square before you drill.

4) Drill the Pilot Hole

Start with the pilot through the guide bushing. Keep the drill square to the door face with light, steady pressure. The pilot establishes true center and stabilizes the 2‑1/8" hole saw you’ll run next.

Contractor drilling a pilot hole through the Spyder door lock installation jig on a white door — Pilot first—then follow with the 2‑1/8" bore. The jig keeps you square.

5) Bore the 2‑1/8" Lockset/Deadbolt Hole from Both Sides

Spinning a 2‑1/8" hole saw straight through in one pass invites tear‑out and misalignment. The better technique is to cut until the pilot just kisses through the far face, stop, then finish from the opposite side. You’ll get a cleaner edge and the two halves will meet dead‑center. The jig’s insert helps ensure you can’t accidentally barrel through crooked.

2-1/8 inch hole saw cutting the main lockset bore through a door using the Spyder kit — Cut until the pilot breaks through, then finish from the opposite face for clean, centered bores.

6) Drill the 1" Latch/Bolt Hole

Move to the door edge and use the jig’s guide for the 1" bore. Keep your drill axis true to the edge. This hole must intersect cleanly with the 2‑1/8" cavity for the latch to slide in without binding.

Close-up drilling the 1-inch latch bolt hole at the door edge with the Spyder jig — The 1" latch bore intersects the main cavity. A square, guided cut prevents sloppy alignment.

7) Eject Cores & Clean Up

Press the Rapid Core Eject button and push the plugs off the hole saws. Deburr edges, score for the latch faceplate if needed, and test‑fit the hardware. Your bores should line up perfectly.

Spyder Rapid Core Eject arbor with ejected wood plug on a bench next to the pilot bit — Push‑button core ejection—no screwdriver, no pliers, no stalling.

8) Install the Lockset or Deadbolt

Follow the hardware instructions. Because the bores are aligned, the halves and bolt should seat without wrestling. That’s the hidden ROI: not just speed, but fewer callbacks and less rework.

Compatibility: Doors, Thicknesses, and Materials

The Spyder door lock installation kit is built for the real world: standard interior and exterior doors, 1‑3/8" and 1‑3/4" thick, and the two backsets you’ll meet most—2‑3/8" and 2‑3/4". Bi‑metal hole saws tackle wood, composite, and many steel doors up to 1‑3/4" (always verify your specific slab and hardware requirements). The arbor’s design and deep guide bushings improve tracking so the bit doesn’t chatter, even as you break through.

Accuracy Tips to Avoid Misalignment & Rework

Trust the jig: keep the drill aligned with the bushings—don’t “steer” mid‑cut.
Both sides, always: start the 2‑1/8" bore on one face, finish on the other to eliminate blow‑out and center drift.
Check settings twice: confirm door thickness and backset on the jig before clamping.
Protect the finish: keep the rubber feet clean; a piece of painter’s tape under the feet can help on fresh paint.
Store smart: collapse the jig when you toss it in the toolbox so the insert doesn’t pop out and get lost.

Speed & ROI: Working Smarter, Not Harder

“Work smarter, not harder” isn’t just a slogan—it’s how you protect margin. With a clamp‑on jig and Rapid Core Eject, the Spyder door lock installation kit reduces layout time, keeps cuts square, and shortens bit changes. Those saved minutes add up across units, punch lists, and service calls.

For more ways to squeeze time out of repetitive tasks, check our deep dive on consumables and ROI in blade selection: Reciprocating Saw Blades: Mach‑Blue, TPI, Lengths, ROI & Safety. It’s written for crews who want durable, fast‑cutting accessories that don’t blow the budget—and the same logic applies here: fewer stalls, cleaner results, and more billable progress per hour.

Pro Tips & Troubleshooting

Wandering pilot? Back out, re‑seat the pilot in the guide bushing, and restart with lighter pressure. Let the teeth do the work.
Existing hole is oversized or chewed up? A clamp‑on jig stabilizes the cutter so you can carefully true the opening with the 2‑1/8" saw.
Cut quality on steel doors: run slower, use steady feed, and don’t skip cutting fluid where appropriate for the hardware manufacturer’s guidance.
Chips everywhere? Pause between passes and brush away debris to keep the teeth clearing efficiently.

Safety Essentials for Door Lock Installations

Wear eye and ear protection, keep hands away from rotating tools, and clamp the jig securely. Work on a stable door—ideally on sawhorses with blocks or in a jamb with the door immobilized. Disconnect power before changing hole saws and use the arbor lockout features as designed. Always follow your hardware manufacturer’s instructions.

Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit vs. Common Alternatives

Plenty of lock‑install kits exist, but they’re not all equal. Some rely on thin plastic guides that wear quickly; others require multiple screw‑on plates and adapters before you can even start. The Spyder kit’s differences are practical: a clamp‑on body, deep bushings that resist wear, and Rapid Core Eject. That last feature is the silent hero—because every time you stop to dig out a jammed plug is momentum you’ll never get back.

If you’re building out a broader “work smarter” toolkit, you might also appreciate accessories that punch above their weight. For example, our take on a sleeper blade deal at Lowe’s—Spyder’s Tarantula circular saw blade—explains how seemingly small upgrades can yield straighter cuts and fewer swaps: The Most UNDERRATED Circular Saw Blade at Lowe’s Right Now.

Where to Buy & Learn More

Official site: SpyderProducts.com — specs, product families, and accessory guides.
Videos & demos: Spyder Products on YouTube — training clips and real‑world demos.
Buy at Lowe’s (quick link): shoplowes.me/4oERp4I

FAQs: Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit

What size holes do I need for a standard doorknob or deadbolt?

Most residential locksets use a 2‑1/8" face bore and a 1" latch/bolt bore. The Spyder kit includes both sizes to handle either a knob/lever or a deadbolt.

Does this kit work on metal doors?

Yes—Spyder’s bi‑metal hole saws can cut many steel doors up to 1‑3/4" thick. Run at a controlled speed and use cutting fluid as recommended by the door and hardware maker.

Do I drill the 2‑1/8" hole straight through from one side?

For clean edges and perfect alignment, start on one face until the pilot breaks through, then finish from the opposite face.

What backsets does the Spyder door lock installation kit support?

The jig indexes for the two most common residential backsets: 2‑3/8" and 2‑3/4".

What door thicknesses are supported?

1‑3/8" and 1‑3/4". The insert flips to match the slab thickness.

What is Rapid Core Eject?

It’s a push‑button arbor system that ejects the cut plug quickly so you can change hole saws or keep cutting without prying.

Do I need a special drill?

A quality 3/8" or 1/2" drill with variable speed is ideal. Keep the drill square to the jig bushings and let the teeth cut without forcing the tool.

Can I enlarge or true up an existing hole with this kit?

Yes. The clamp‑on jig stabilizes the hole saw over a slightly damaged or off‑center opening so you can correct it carefully.

Can the kit help prevent blow‑out?

Yes. The depth‑stop insert and the “cut from both sides” method keep edges cleaner and faces unchipped.

Where can I see a full demonstration?

Spyder’s official channel shares quick training videos and product overviews: Spyder Products on YouTube.

Conclusion: Should You Buy the Spyder Door Lock Installation Kit?

If you install locks more than once in a blue moon, the answer is yes. The Spyder door lock installation kit pairs a rigid, clamp‑on jig with Rapid Core Eject to deliver speed, accuracy, and fewer mistakes. It’s a smart upgrade for busy pros—and a confidence booster for DIYers who want pro‑level results on the first try. Check current price and availability at Lowe’s, review specs at SpyderProducts.com, and browse demo videos on YouTube.

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