Spyder Step Bit Test: Is the $70 Mach-Blue Step Bit Worth It vs a $19 Black Oxide Step Bit?

Spyder step bit reviews are everywhere, but I wanted answers I could measure: speed, heat, and whether the bit starts where I aim—or “walks” across metal like a shopping cart with a bad wheel. So I pitted a $70 Spyder Mach‑Blue step bit against a $19 black‑oxide step bit in sheet metal, then abused them in an impact driver and let a thermal camera tell the truth.

Quick takeaways from my Spyder step bit test

• Drill press speed (18‑ga mild steel, 5 holes): Spyder averaged 4.69 sec/hole vs black oxide at 12.43 sec/hole (about 2.6× faster).
• Single-hole heat: Spyder stayed around 79°F vs black oxide at 120°F.
• Impact-driver abuse test (15 holes): drilling time was basically a tie (2:04 vs 2:01), but heat was not—Spyder peaked at 145°F vs black oxide at 228°F.
• Walking test: Spyder didn’t walk with or without a punch mark; the black oxide bit walked even with a punch mark.

If you’re still building your “which bit do I grab?” instincts, bookmark this internal guide: Choosing the Right Drill Bits: Your Comprehensive Guide.

Why I tested a Spyder step bit in the first place

I’ve learned the hard way that “cheap” drill bits aren’t always cheap—especially when you’re drilling sheet metal and you only get one shot to place a hole cleanly. Step bits are supposed to make that easier: one bit, multiple hole sizes, usually cleaner holes in thin material.

Spyder’s Mach‑Blue line is marketed as a step up from standard coatings. On the product listings, Spyder claims the Mach‑Blue step bits can deliver up to 50× more holes and cut up to 2× faster than titanium or black oxide coated step bits. That’s a bold claim—so we put it in the only environment that matters: real drilling.

Also, we didn’t just test one Spyder step bit. I have both sizes DIYers ask me about the most: Spyder 19022 and Spyder 19023.

The exact bits used (and what makes this a fair comparison)

For the head‑to‑head portion, we used:

• Black oxide step bit: steps from 1/4" to 3/4"
• Spyder 19022 Mach‑Blue step bit: 3/16" to 7/8"

We focused the comparison on the most common “real life” size for DIY metal drilling: 1/2" holes. Both bits can drill 1/2", so this isn’t an apples‑to‑oranges demo.

External links (products used):
• Spyder Mach‑Blue 19022 12‑step drill bit (3/16"–7/8")
• Spyder Mach‑Blue 19023 16‑step drill bit (3/16"–1‑1/8")

If you’ve been following our Spyder tool coverage, you’ll probably like this internal post too: Lowe’s Hidden Gem Tool Accessories You’re Missing Out On!

Spyder step bit test setup (materials, RPM, and why that matters)

I wanted this to be repeatable. No “mystery settings.” Here’s the setup:

• Drill press speed: 1550 RPM
• Material: 18‑gauge mild steel sheet
• Test holes: five 1/2" holes per bit on the drill press
• Heat tracking: spot temperature observations on a single hole, plus thermal footage during the 15‑hole impact test
• Impact test: 15 rapid holes per bit using an impact driver

Results: Spyder step bit vs black oxide step bit (speed, heat, and walking)

Test #1: Drill press speed test in 18‑gauge mild steel (5 × 1/2" holes)

This is the controlled test. A drill press removes a lot of human variables—steady feed, stable platform, consistent RPM—so the bit’s cutting ability can actually show up.

Average drilling time per hole:

Bit	Avg. time per 1/2" hole	What that means over 5 holes
Spyder 19022 Mach‑Blue	4.69 seconds	About 23.45 seconds of drilling time
Black oxide step bit	12.43 seconds	About 62.15 seconds of drilling time

On this test, the Spyder step bit was about 2.6× faster. And that speed didn’t feel “violent.” It felt clean—like the bit was cutting instead of rubbing.

Test #2: Single-hole temperature (the first clue something was different)

Speed is cool, but heat is the silent killer. So while drilling a single 1/2" hole, we watched temperatures:

• Spyder step bit: stayed in the 70s—79°F
• Black oxide step bit: hit 120°F

That’s a 41°F difference on a single hole. And if you’ve ever cooked a bit, you already know why this matters: heat softens edges, increases friction, and turns “cutting” into “scraping.”

Test #3: The walking test (the twist I didn’t expect)

I expected the punch mark to be the great equalizer. You know the drill: center punch, witness mark, drill straight down, done.

But here’s what we observed:

• Spyder 19022: no walking with or without a punch mark.
• Black oxide bit: walking without a punch mark… and it still walked even with a punch mark.

Walking matters because it creates a chain reaction: the hole shifts, you correct by pushing harder, pushing harder creates more heat, and more heat turns the bit dull faster.

If you’re trying to enlarge an existing hole cleanly (instead of fighting a walking bit), this internal trick is worth a read: The “Stacked” Hole Saw Trick (Don’t Buy A Jig): How I Enlarge an Existing Hole Cleanly.

Test #4: Impact driver rapid drilling test (15 holes) — speed was a tie, heat wasn’t

A drill press is polite. An impact driver test is not. This is the “stop babying it” scenario—fast, repetitive drilling where heat stacks up.

Time to drill 15 holes:

• Black oxide bit: 2 minutes 1 second
• Spyder step bit: 2 minutes 4 seconds

So yes—the black oxide bit was about 3 seconds faster across 15 holes. That’s basically nothing.

But then we looked at thermal footage:

• Black oxide step bit peak temperature: 228°F
• Spyder step bit peak temperature: 145°F

That’s an 83°F difference. And in my experience, this is where “cheap” gets expensive: you might save money up front, but you pay for it in heat, frustration, and replacement cycles.

By the way—if you’re into impact-rated gear beyond drill bits, this internal review is a fun one: Why Spyder’s Spline Drive Impact Sockets Might Be the Best Impact Sockets of 2025.

Spyder step bit stainless steel grab test (with Mach‑Blue Goo)

Stainless steel is where step bits can get sketchy. It’s the “grab test”—the moment a bit can bite and yank if your technique is sloppy or the tool is fighting heat.

For this test we drilled through 22‑gauge stainless steel using Spyder’s lubricant. With the Mach‑Blue Goo, we observed a temperature of 69°F. More importantly: the cut felt controlled.

External link (lube used): Spyder Mach‑Blue Goo cutting tool lubricant (6 oz)

Spyder step bit real-world drilling scenarios (DIY materials)

After the comparison tests, we ran the rest as Spyder-only demos—because if you’re buying a step bit, you want to know what it does across the random mix of materials that show up in real DIY life.

Spyder step bit on PVC pipe (clean holes without cracking)

PVC can be weird: too fast and you melt it; too aggressive and you can chip or tear the edge. A step bit is great here because it “eases” the hole bigger step-by-step.

Spyder step bit on polycarbonate sheet (transparent plastic = high drama)

Polycarbonate is the “don’t crack it” plastic. The move here is simple: clamp it, start slow, clear chips, and don’t force the cut. If you smell hot plastic, you’re going too fast.

Spyder step bit on a metal electrical box

This is where a step bit earns its keep: enlarging knockouts and making clean holes without turning the box into a jagged razor blade.

Spyder step bit sizing: Should you buy the 19022 or the 19023?

This is the buying decision most DIYers actually face. The head-to-head test used the 19022, but I own both because the top sizes show up constantly in real projects.

• Spyder 19022: tops out at 7/8"
• Spyder 19023: goes bigger—up to 1‑1/8"

My simple rule:

• If you rarely need bigger than 7/8", start with the 19022.
• If you ever need that bigger hole size (or want more flexibility), go 19023.
• If you do a lot of electrical-style work, owning both is a “set it and forget it” move.

How to use a Spyder step bit (the technique that keeps it cool and clean)

If you want cleaner holes and longer bit life, the “secret” is boring: control heat and let the bit cut.

• Clamp the work. Sheet metal can grab and spin. Clamping isn’t optional.
• Start slow and let the point bite. Don’t slam the trigger and hope for the best.
• Light pressure. If you’re white-knuckling the drill, you’re generating heat.
• Clear chips. Back the bit out occasionally—chips trap heat and kill edges.
• Use lube on stainless and tougher metals. A paste lube that sticks (like Mach‑Blue Goo) is perfect for vertical work.
• Stop at the right step. Step bits will happily keep going. Watch your depth and your size marks.

Common step drill bit mistakes (and how to avoid them)

• Going too fast on metal: fast RPM + heavy pressure = heat. Heat = dull.
• Not marking the hole: a quick mark or punch keeps holes consistent—especially in glossy coatings.
• Skipping clamps: sheet metal can spin like a propeller.
• Dry-drilling stainless: it’s possible, but it’s rarely smart. Lube is cheaper than bits.

FAQ: Spyder step bit questions people also ask

What is a Spyder step bit used for?

A Spyder step bit is designed for drilling multiple hole sizes in thin materials—especially sheet metal and electrical boxes—without swapping bits. It’s also great for enlarging an existing hole cleanly.

Are Spyder Mach‑Blue step bits worth it?

In my testing, the Spyder step bit ran cooler, drilled faster on the drill press, and started holes with less walking than a basic black oxide step bit. If you drill metal often—or you care about hole placement—it’s easier to justify the price.

How do you stop a step bit from walking?

Clamp the work, start slow, and make a small witness mark. In our walking test, the Spyder 19022 didn’t walk even without a punch mark—but technique still matters for consistent results.

Can you use a step drill bit in an impact driver?

Yes—many step bits, including Spyder’s Mach‑Blue step bits, are impact-rated with a 1/4" hex shank. Just remember: impact drivers can build heat fast, so clear chips and don’t force it.

What speed should I drill sheet metal with a step bit?

Lower and controlled is usually better for metal, especially as hole size increases. If you see smoke, blueing, or burning paint, slow down and reduce pressure.

Do I need cutting lubricant for stainless steel?

For stainless, lubricant is one of the easiest wins. It reduces heat and helps the cut feel controlled. In our stainless test, using Mach‑Blue Goo kept temps low and the drilling felt more predictable.

Should I buy Spyder 19022 or 19023?

If you top out at 7/8", buy the 19022. If you need up to 1‑1/8"—or you want more flexibility—buy the 19023. If you do a lot of electrical-style work, both sizes cover a ton of common jobs.

Can a step bit drill PVC and polycarbonate?

Yes, and it’s often a great choice because the step geometry makes it easier to “sneak up” on the final size. Just keep speed down and don’t melt the plastic.

Final verdict: my honest take on the Spyder step bit

If you drill metal once a year, almost any step bit can “work.” But if you drill sheet metal with any regularity, the Spyder step bit did three things that matter: it cut faster (in a controlled drill press test), it ran cooler (single-hole and thermal footage), and it didn’t walk like the black oxide bit did.

That’s the difference between “a hole exists” and “a hole exists exactly where I wanted it, and the bit still feels sharp afterward.”

If you want more DIY tool testing like this, browse the rest of our internal posts here: VCG Store Tool News.

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