Reciprocating Saw Blades: The Complete Guide to Mach‑Blue, TPI, Lengths, ROI & Safety
I researched Spyder Mach-Blue Bi-metal reciprocating saw blades so you can choose faster cuts, longer life, and real savings. What matters most? Material, TPI, length, and coating. Below, I break down bi‑metal vs carbide, where 6–24 TPI wins, how the adjustable shoe extends blade life, and why Mach‑Blue blades are worth a look for nail‑embedded wood and metal—plus safety that keeps profits intact.
Table of Contents
- What Are Reciprocating Saw Blades?
- Reciprocating Saw Blades by Material: Bi‑Metal, Carbide & Specialty
- Reciprocating Saw Blades TPI & Tooth Geometry
- Reciprocating Saw Blades Lengths, Widths & Profiles
- Spotlight: Spyder Mach‑Blue Reciprocating Saw Blades (Made in Germany)
- How to Choose Reciprocating Saw Blades by Material
- Setup & Technique: Shoes, Orbital Action & Feed
- ROI: How Long‑Life Reciprocating Saw Blades Pay You Back
- Safety Essentials for Reciprocating Saw Blades
- FAQs: Reciprocating Saw Blades (People Also Ask)
- Conclusion
What Are Reciprocating Saw Blades?
A reciprocating saw (often called a “Sawzall”) powers a narrow blade back and forth to cut wood, metal, plastics, and even pruning limbs. The blade you choose determines speed, finish, and durability. Most modern recip saws accept universal‑shank blades, so you can run a range of brands and blade types on one tool (always confirm compatibility with your saw’s manual).
Related reading: If coatings and durability interest you, you’ll like this dive on circular saw blades too:
The Most UNDERRATED Circular Saw Blade at Lowe’s Right Now!
Reciprocating Saw Blades by Material: Bi‑Metal, Carbide & Specialty
Bi‑Metal (often with 8% cobalt): The job‑site workhorse. Great shock resistance and toughness; ideal for wood with nails, EMT/conduit, mild steel, and stainless in moderate thicknesses. Coatings (like Mach‑Blue) reduce friction and heat, extending life.
Carbide‑Tipped: Best where you’re hitting hardened fasteners, cast iron, thick stainless, or abrasive materials. They’re pricier, but in the right application the cost per cut can beat cheaper blades.
Carbide‑Grit / Diamond: For tile, masonry, fiberglass and other abrasive composites where teeth would shatter or dull instantly.
Pro tip: “Match hardness up.” Your blade’s cutting edge must be harder than the work. If you’re burning, stalling, or knocking teeth off, move to a tougher construction or a higher‑TPI metal blade.
Related reading: Tooth geometry on drill bits mirrors the same “match the material” approach:
Choosing the Right Drill Bits: Your Comprehensive Guide
Reciprocating Saw Blades TPI & Tooth Geometry
TPI = Teeth Per Inch.
- Lower TPI (6–10): Fast, aggressive cuts in wood and demolition, including nail‑embedded lumber.
- Mid TPI (10–14): Versatile for mixed materials and thicker non‑ferrous stock.
- High TPI (14–24): Smoother cuts in metal; often the pick for stainless and thin steel.
Keep 2–3 teeth in the cut at all times. If teeth are skipping, raise TPI; if you’re burning and creeping, drop TPI or increase feed with a stiffer blade.
Variable‑pitch teeth and deeper gullets improve chip clearing in wood and reduce chatter in metal.
Reciprocating Saw Blades Lengths, Widths & Profiles
Common lengths are 6" (control), 9" (reach + versatility), and 12" (deep plunge/over‑size). Wider, thicker blades track straighter and resist heat/chatter; narrower blades turn corners but flex more.
Choose length about 1–2" longer than your work to avoid slapping. When you’ve worn out the first third of the blade, shorten the shoe to bring fresh teeth into the cut.

Related reading: Accessory upgrades that quietly boost performance and control:
Lowe’s Hidden Gem Tool Accessories You’re Missing Out On!
Spotlight: Spyder Mach‑Blue Reciprocating Saw Blades (Made in Germany)
Spyder’s Mach‑Blue line is a bi‑metal recip blade with a low‑friction “Mach‑Blue” coating designed to hold a sharp edge, cut cooler, and last longer. Spyder states “up to 20× longer life” vs conventional bi‑metal in their product descriptions, and lists applications from wood with nails to steel, stainless, aluminum, and PVC. They also note the blades are made in Germany.
- Spyder Mach‑Blue 9" 6‑TPI (200321) – wood with nails, demolition, fast cuts.
- Spyder Mach‑Blue 6" 18‑TPI (200320) – metal and stainless‑leaning work.

How to Choose Reciprocating Saw Blades by Material
Wood with Nails / Demolition
- Go‑to: Bi‑metal 6–10 TPI, wide/stiff body for tracking.
- Why: Clears chips fast, resists shattering when you plow through hidden fasteners.
- Example pick: Mach‑Blue 9" 6‑TPI.

Mild Steel & Stainless
- Thin wall / sheet (<1/8"): 18–24 TPI.
- Thicker stock: 10–14 TPI for chip load and speed; control heat with feed and speed.
- Example pick: Mach‑Blue 6" 18‑TPI.

Aluminum, Copper, EMT/Conduit
12–18 TPI; avoid clogging by moderating speed and keeping a steady feed.
PVC & Plastics
Fine‑tooth or higher TPI, low speed to prevent melting; support the work to prevent chatter.
Pruning / Green Wood
5–8 TPI pruning blades with tall gullets to clear fibers; watch for embedded wire and fencing.

Setup & Technique: Shoes, Orbital Action & Feed
- Adjust the shoe so fresh teeth contact the work as earlier sections wear. This can double usable life on demolition jobs.
- Pivot into the cut with the shoe planted; it reduces chatter and protects the teeth.
- Orbital action: Great for wood (throws chips); turn it off for metal to slow the stroke and improve bite.
- Don’t starve the cut. A steady, confident feed loads the tooth properly; excessive pressure overheats the edge.
- Use fluid on thicker steel when possible; if you must go dry, reduce speed and extend your rest intervals.
ROI: How Long‑Life Reciprocating Saw Blades Pay You Back
Consumables add up—especially recip blades. Consider three hidden costs:
- Changeovers: Every swap steals minutes and momentum.
- Store runs: Mid‑day trips spiral into lost hours.
- Failed cuts: Burned edges and broken teeth mean re‑work.
Coated bi‑metal like Mach‑Blue is designed to reduce friction and heat, holding a sharp edge longer. Spyder lists “up to 20× longer” life vs conventional bi‑metal on their 6" (18‑TPI) and 9" (6‑TPI) SKUs—if you’re chewing nails and mixed materials, fewer swaps alone may justify the blade.


Safety Essentials for Reciprocating Saw Blades
The tool is simple; the hazards are real.
- Wear eye/face, hearing, and hand protection.
- Guard the point of operation and keep bystanders clear.
- Confirm there are no hidden wires, gas lines, or water pipes before blind cuts.
- Inspect the blade for cracks or bent sections; swap it out if damage is present.
- Use the right blade for the material and keep both hands on the saw.
For a concise reference, see OSHA’s Hand & Power Tools booklet (PDF): OSHA 3080.
FAQs: Reciprocating Saw Blades (People Also Ask)
Are reciprocating saw blades universal and interchangeable?
- Most modern recip saws accept a universal shank, but always check your manual—specialty tools and compact “one‑hand” saws can have fit nuances. Use blades rated for the material you’re cutting.
What TPI do I use for metal vs wood?
-
Metal: generally 14–24 TPI (thinner metals → higher TPI).
Wood/demo: 6–10 TPI for fast, aggressive cuts and nail tolerance.
Do longer blades cut better?
- Longer blades increase reach and can cut deeper, but they’re harder to control and run hotter. Choose the shortest blade that still comfortably clears your work.
Can one blade cut both nails and steel plate?
- Multi‑material bi‑metal will handle nail‑embedded wood and lighter metal, but for thick plate or hardened fasteners, step up to a higher‑TPI metal blade or carbide‑tipped design.
How do I extend reciprocating saw blade life?
- Plant the shoe, shorten it to engage fresh teeth, manage speed/pressure, and avoid side‑loading. Use lubricant on thicker steel whenever practical.
Conclusion
When you match material, TPI, length, and coating, reciprocating saw blades cut faster, cooler, and straighter—and they last longer. For mixed demolition and metal days, coated bi‑metal like Spyder Mach‑Blue can reduce the grind of changeovers and store runs while still leaving a clean edge. Keep the shoe planted, pick the right TPI, and wear your PPE—that’s how you protect both timeline and budget.