The $0 Crown Molding Display Box (From Scrap Plywood) That Sells More Trim Jobs

I’ve found that a simple crown molding display box made from scrap plywood can completely change how clients see a room. When they only scroll photos online, expectations get wild fast. But when I pull out a two‑piece crown cornice they can touch—inside corners, outside corners, returns and all—the conversation gets easier, the callbacks drop, and the jobs get better.

What Is a Crown Molding Display Box (and Why I Rely on It)?

What I mean by a “crown molding display box”

When I say “crown molding display box,” I’m talking about a three‑dimensional mock‑up made from scrap plywood that mimics a corner of a room. It has a “wall,” a “ceiling,” inside corners, outside corners, and short returns so you can see exactly how the molding sits in space.

Instead of showing a flat stick of crown on the tailgate, I bring this little box. It’s built once, survives life in the truck, and comes out at every estimate where trim is on the table. Clients can hold it, look down the joints, and see the shadow lines they’re actually paying for.

How it fixes the Pinterest problem

If you run a construction company, you already know the Pinterest problem: clients fall in love with a photo from someone else’s house, with different ceiling heights and different room proportions, then expect the same result in their space. That’s a recipe for disappointment.

The crown molding display box turns those flat, unrealistic expectations into a real‑world sample. I can show a single‑piece crown in one box and a two‑piece cornice in another, then explain how each will look with their ceiling height. When people see the difference in person, they make better choices and I spend far less time explaining why something “doesn’t look like the picture.”

Planning Your Crown Molding Display Box From Scrap Plywood

Choosing scrap plywood thickness, grade and size

You don’t need fancy material for this; I build mine from leftovers. Half‑inch or three‑quarter‑inch plywood is ideal—it’s stiff enough to stay straight, thick enough to hold fasteners, and usually abundant in the scrap pile.

If you’re picking from a stack of offcuts, look for panels that are reasonably flat with a decent face veneer. A smoother face needs less sanding and looks more like a finished wall once the molding is on. If you want to geek out on the different types of sheathing and panel grades, APA has a solid overview of plywood grades for finish‑quality projects.

Sizing the box for a two‑piece cornice

I built my original display for a single‑piece crown. It was about seven inches tall and worked great for smaller profiles. As soon as I started mocking up a two‑piece cornice—base moulding plus crown—I realized I needed more height so the build‑up didn’t feel cramped.

For most average‑size crowns, a ten‑inch‑tall box feels just right. It gives room for the base starter piece, the crown above it, and a bit of plain “wall” so clients can see how the molding interacts with the surface below. I like a box that’s roughly square in footprint so inside and outside corners are easy to read from all angles.

Tools and Materials for a Two‑Piece Crown Molding Display Box

Core tools I grab from the truck

To build the box itself, you don’t need a cabinet shop. My basic kit looks like this:

• Circular saw for rough cutting plywood down to manageable pieces
• Table saw for truing panels to final size
• Miter saw for all of the molding cuts
• Pin or brad nailer plus glue for fast assembly
• Clamps to keep everything square
• Hand files, sanding block, or rotary tool for fine‑tuning copes

My workflow is simple: rough cut with the circular saw, leave myself about an eighth of an inch extra, then run the pieces through the table saw to bring them to exact size without wrestling a whole sheet alone.

Why blade choice matters (and how I set up my miter saw)

Clean cuts in finish‑grade plywood and crisp crown profiles start with a good blade. I use a high‑tooth‑count finish blade designed for plywood and trim, which leaves a glassy edge and minimizes tear‑out.

Image: close‑up of a miter saw with blue finish blade spinning while cutting crown molding for the display box.

If you’re curious about blades that punch above their price, I did a full Spyder Tarantula circular saw blade review that shows how it handles finish work. A smooth cut on the box panels and crown saves you time later with sanding and filling.

And because a lot of this work happens on real jobsites, not just the shop, I usually show up in jobsite‑ready VCG hoodies. If you want something high‑vis that still looks professional during estimates, check out the VCG Construction Embroidered Logo High Viz Green Black Hoodie from the VCG Construction merch store.

Step‑by‑Step: Building the Scrap Plywood Crown Molding Display Box

Breaking down sheet goods and truing the panels

I start by breaking a full sheet of plywood into oversized blanks with a circular saw and a straightedge. Leaving that extra eighth of an inch makes it easier to handle alone without worrying about a perfect edge on the first pass.

Once the pieces are manageable, I run them on the table saw to final width and height—ten inches for “wall” and “ceiling,” and matching pieces for the sides. I don’t crank the blade way up; I set the depth just above the panel thickness for a smoother cut and a little extra safety.

Assembling a square, sturdy frame

With the parts cut, I dry‑fit everything to confirm the box is square. Then I run a bead of glue on the edges, stand the pieces up, clamp them tight, and tack them with a pin or brad nailer.

Image: assembling a scrap plywood crown molding display box with clamps.

I don’t need furniture‑grade joinery here, but I do need the corners plumb and square. If the box is racked out of square, the inside and outside corners of the crown will lie to you. That defeats the whole purpose of the crown molding display box.

Installing the Base Piece: Turning Flat Stock Into a Cornice Starter

Laying out reveals, heights and pin locations

The first molding I install is a flat base profile that acts as the lower part of the cornice. I mark a consistent reveal line around the interior of the box—about three‑quarters of an inch down from the “ceiling”—so the base sits at the same height on every side.

Image: measuring inside plywood crown molding display box to set base molding reveal.

This reveal gives the eye a little breathing room between the ceiling and the cornice, and it sets up a clean landing spot for the crown above. I lightly pencil in where my pins will go so I don’t blow nails out through a visible edge.

Coping inside corners on the base molding

For inside corners, coping beats trying to close a perfect miter in a tight box. I start by cutting a 45° on the miter saw to expose the profile, then I follow that line with a coping saw. Once the bulk is removed, I refine the shape with a small file and some sandpaper.

Image: coping the base molding profile to create a tight inside corner.

Taking a few extra minutes to cope the base properly gives me tight, shadow‑free joints. And once clients see how clean the corners are on the display box, they understand why good crown work costs more than just “slapping it up.”

Adding the Crown: Completing the Two‑Piece Cornice on the Display Box

Setting the crown reveal and spring angle

With the base in, I dry‑fit a piece of crown on top to decide where it should sit. I’m looking for a reveal between the top detail of the base and the bottom of the crown—about an inch in this case—so the profiles feel balanced.

Once I like the look, I mark that reveal line on both sides of the box. That gives me consistent reference points as I cut and install the crown, and it locks in the spring angle so the molding isn’t tipped too far toward the wall or ceiling.

Cutting outside corners and tiny returns

Outside corners and tiny returns are where a lot of crown jobs fall apart. On the miter saw, I use the typical crown settings (31.6° on the miter scale, 33.9° on the bevel) and cut the crown upside down and backwards so the ceiling side sits on the fence.

Image: cutting crown molding on a miter saw for a two‑piece cornice display box.

Image: close‑up of the spinning blade cutting crown molding, emphasizing a smooth finish cut.

For the tiny returns at the ends, the trick is to cut them so thin that the profile comes to a point. If the return has any thickness left, it will hold the molding off the wall and create a nasty shadow. I mark clear pencil lines, cut just to the waste side, and sneak up on the perfect fit.

Coping the crown profile and fine‑tuning

After the long crown piece is cut, I expose the profile on the mating piece with a miter cut, then cope away the waste. Just like with the base, I refine with a round file so the curves of the profile tuck nicely into the piece they’re meeting.

Image: sanding and fine‑tuning a coped crown molding edge for a tight joint.

I treat sanding as a touch‑up, not demolition. I want to remove just enough “meat” to close the joint, not reshape the entire profile. Done right, the coped corner snaps into place and looks like one continuous piece of molding.

Finishing the Crown Molding Display Box for Client Presentations

Sanding, filling, and caulking like a real install

Even though this box is built from scrap plywood, I finish it like a real room corner. I fill nail holes, sand the molding lightly, and run a thin bead of caulk in the seams. Once everything’s smooth, I give it a couple coats of paint so it looks like a finished install, not something that fell off the back of the truck.

A clean, finished‑looking crown molding display box sends the message that you care about details. Clients notice that, especially when they’re comparing you to a cheaper bid.

Using multiple colors and sheens to show options

If you want to go the extra mile, you can use the box like a miniature finish lab. Paint part of it flat white, part semi‑gloss, maybe even a darker accent color on one section. That way clients can see how different sheens and colors react with the profile and shadow lines of the molding.

This is the same idea designers use with sample boards. They lay out materials where people can touch, see, and compare them. If you’re interested in that side of things, there’s a good overview of the benefits of material sample boards for client presentations that applies directly to what we’re doing with crown.

How I Use the Crown Molding Display Box to Set Expectations and Close Jobs

Walking clients through corners and returns

On a walk‑through, I hand the display box to the homeowner and walk them around it: “Here’s your inside corner, here’s the outside corner, here’s what the return looks like where it dies into the wall.” I point out the reveal between the base and the crown and explain how this exact detail will show up in their house.{index=15}

Image: fitting crown molding into plywood display box to demonstrate corners to clients.

Suddenly, we’re not talking about abstract measurements. We’re talking about a real, physical thing they can see and touch. That makes conversations about style and proportion way easier.

Reducing callbacks and justifying your pricing

The display box also helps with the business side. Clients see how much work goes into coping, cutting outside corners, and dialing in those tiny returns. When they understand it’s not “just a piece of trim,” they’re far less likely to question the labor on your estimate.

Most importantly, it cuts down on callbacks. Clients have already approved what a two‑piece crown cornice looks like before a single stick goes up on the wall. When the job is done, it matches the sample they held on day one.

Variations: Other Trim Display Boxes You Can Build From Scrap

Single‑piece crown for low ceilings

For 8‑foot ceilings, a slim single‑piece crown often makes more sense than a heavy two‑piece build‑up. A smaller display box with just one piece of crown is perfect for these projects. If you’re unsure what size range works with different ceiling heights, Metrie has a handy crown moulding profiles and trim sizing guide that breaks it down by wall height.

Baseboard, casing and wainscoting sample boxes

Once you’ve built one crown molding display box, it’s easy to adapt the idea to other trim. You can create a baseboard and casing box that shows how door trim meets baseboard, or a small wainscoting panel that demonstrates panel moulding and cap rail.

All of these little mock‑ups become part of your sales tool kit. They live in the truck alongside your tape, level, and drill—right next to the VCG Construction merch store gear that keeps you comfortable on site.

Common Crown Molding Display Mistakes (and How I Avoid Them)

Proportion problems

A common mistake is building a box that’s too short or too tall for the crown profile you’re using. If the box is undersized, the crown feels cramped; if it’s oversized, the molding looks weak and underscaled. I match my display proportions to the same sizing rules I’d use in a real room—smaller profiles for low ceilings, larger ones as walls get taller.

Sloppy joints in your “showpiece”

The other big mistake is rushing the cuts because “it’s just a sample.” Remember: this box may be the first impression a client gets of your trim work. If your copes are gappy, your returns are fat, or your miters don’t close, you’re sending the wrong message. Take a little extra time to make the display as tight as the work you want to be known for.

FAQ: Crown Molding Display Boxes & Two‑Piece Cornice Installs

Do I really need a crown molding display box to sell crown jobs?

No—but it helps a ton. You can sell crown off photos and samples, but a three‑dimensional crown molding display box makes expectations crystal clear. Clients know what inside and outside corners, joints, and returns will look like before they sign.

What size crown molding works best with 8‑foot ceilings?

In most homes with 8‑foot ceilings, a crown between about 3" and 5‑3/4" tends to look balanced. Profiles that project more onto the ceiling than down the wall can help keep the room from feeling shorter. For more detailed guidance, that crown moulding profiles and trim sizing guide from Metrie is a good reference.

Is two‑piece crown molding better than single‑piece crown?

“Better” depends on the space. A two‑piece crown cornice adds more presence and detail and can help transition tall walls, but it takes more time and material. For smaller rooms or low ceilings, a single‑piece crown may be the better call. That’s why I like having both options mocked up in display boxes.

How do you cope crown molding corners on a small display box?

The process is the same as in a real room: expose the profile with a miter cut, cope along the profile line, then fine‑tune with a file and light sanding. The only difference in the display box is that the pieces are shorter and the workspace is tighter, so you have to be intentional about your measurements and spring angle.

Wrapping Up

A crown molding display box built from scrap plywood doesn’t look like much at first glance, but it’s one of the most powerful tools I carry. It helps clients visualize exactly what they’re buying, it shows off the quality of my finish carpentry, and it makes conversations about budget and scope a whole lot easier.

If you build one for your own business, treat it like a small, portable showroom corner. Finish it clean, bring it to every estimate, and let it do a lot of the explaining for you. Your future self—and your future crown molding clients—will be glad you did.